American Flyer S-gauge control button, old style, reconditioned & works, list #1

Description

2021Jun10 -- I am TOP RATED on this marketplace with a current 12-month FEEDBACK rating of 100%, and I offer Combined Shipping.
See my last 2 pics for my eBay Seller Level and eBay Feedback.
For shipping I have specified a handling time of 10 business days.
I have for sale a 1-button control panel for an AF electric accessory.
The shell is made of Bakelite and the back has solder tabs instead of
Fahnestock clips, so for your convenience I soldered on 2 12" pigtails of SuperFlex wire
. I have reconditioned it and it works fine, with a contact resistance less than 1 ohm.
It is the equivalent of a SPST switch of configuration Off-(On), in industry standard nomenclature. In my opinion these older style control panels are of much better quality than the later styles with plastic shells.
Two mounting screws are included.
About these AF buttons -- Over time I had accumulated a bunch of AF control buttons. I don't use them but instead have a control panel with push buttons and toggle switches. So, I decided to move them on eBay. When I tested them about one half didn't work at all or had high contact resistances. I was about to toss the dogs but instead decided to spend a little time and recondition them, probably not really the worth the time. AF control buttons are not well designed and are rather cheesy. The contacts become corroded, the riveted joints become electrically weak, and the base is attached to the shell with drive rivets. So, if you're planning on buying AF control buttons elsewhere, then BUYER BEWARE! Again, BUYER BEWARE! If my one half sample holds true then you can expect the same. You should insist the seller tests them. The buttons I am selling are fully reconditioned, tested, and have contact resistances of 1ohm or less.
About reconditioning ... Under the push button is a springy brass strip with its end bent down at a right angle. The end of the right angle makes contact with a brass connection point. This design gives a nice high-pressure contact  as opposed to a flat strip making contact. I polished the end of the brass strip and the contact point. I also soldered any loose or weak riveted electrical connections. AF riveted electrical connections are notoriously unreliable because sometimes the riveted joint is not gas-tight and then over time corrosion sneaks in.
Originally the contact panel was attached to the shell by drive pins. I have replaced the drive pins with sheet metal screws.
Tip -- To remove a drive pin on a product like this, or a rail car's chassis, use a soldering iron to heat the drive pin for a few seconds and the contact panel, or rail car chassis, should easily pry out.