American Flyer S-gauge button "Stock Yard", reconditioned & works, list #2

Description

2021May10 -- I am TOP RATED on this marketplace with a current 12-month FEEDBACK rating of 100%, and I offer Combined Shipping. See my last 2 pics for my eBay Seller Level and eBay Feedback.
For shipping I have specified a handling time of 10 business days.
I have for sale a 1-button & toggle switch control panel for an AF Stock Yard model 771 and an AF Stock Car model 736.
The shell is made of plastic and the back panel has
Fahnestock clips (much better than solder tabs).
I have reconditioned it and it works fine, with contact resistances less than 1 ohm. The original rotary switch was rated 1 amp and was bad with one of its pigtails disconnected and no fix to it. Pic #4 shows a control panel with a rotary switch, not a part of this deal. Pic #5 shows how a rotary switch would appear with its pigtails. I have replaced the rotary switch with a SPDT On-Off-On toggle switch rated 5 amps, and either On position works. I would say a much better and more durable switch anyway. The push button
has 2 independent contacts, operated by 1 button, and is the equivalent of a DPST switch of configuration Off-(On), in industry standard nomenclature. I don't know why AF chose to use 2 contacts to operate one accessory, unless they thought one contact couldn't carry enough current. The left side push button does nothing, it is glued in and is there just to fill the rotary switch hole. Pic #3 shows pre-assembly and the toggle switch. Two mounting screws are included.
I did search Newark Electronics to check availability of either the original rotary switch or a substitute, but nothing available.
About these AF buttons -- Over time I had accumulated a bunch of AF control buttons. I don't use them but instead have a control panel with push buttons and toggle switches. So, I decided to move them on eBay. When I tested them about one half didn't work at all or had high contact resistances. I was about to toss the dogs but instead decided to spend a little time and recondition them, probably not really the worth the time. AF control buttons are not well designed and are rather cheesy. The contacts become corroded, the riveted joints become electrically weak, and the base is attached to the shell with drive rivets. So, if you're planning on buying AF control buttons elsewhere, then BUYER BEWARE! If my one half sample holds true then you can expect the same. You should insist the seller tests them. The buttons I am selling are fully reconditioned, tested, and have contact resistances of 1ohm or less.
About reconditioning ... Under the push button are springy brass strips with their ends bent over almost 180 degrees. The sharp end of the bend makes contact with a brass connection point. This design gives a nice high-pressure contact  as opposed to a flat strip making contact. I polished the ends of the brass strips and the contact points. I also soldered all riveted electrical connections. AF riveted electrical connections are notoriously unreliable because sometimes the riveted joint is not gas-tight and then over time corrosion sneaks in.
Originally the contact panel was attached to the shell by drive pins. I have replaced the drive pins with sheet metal screws.
Tip -- To remove a drive pin on a product like this, or a rail car's chassis, use a soldering iron to heat the drive pin for a few seconds and the contact panel, or rail car chassis, should easily pry out.